6 Easy Steps to Refinishing Furniture

It started with a round, pedestal table and four Windsor chairs we spotted at a garage sale. They were the set everyone had in the 90s--the chair back and legs painted white with a light oak-stained seat. The embarrassed owner just wanted to get rid of them. Would he take $40 for the set? As long as I could haul it away, it was mine at a steal. After some experimenting with sanding and staining (plus several oopses along the way), I unveiled the circular table with deep cherry stain and antiqued chairs--pale yellow milk paint undercoat with black exterior. Everyone was wowed, despite my novice mistakes. This led to makeovers for a triple dresser, rocking chair, and tall chest, all of which are stunning and unique.

Refinishing furniture really isn't that difficult. I actually use it as therapy. Plus I've done every project on the balcony of my apartment. Breathing new life into pieces that could be junk is exhilarating and beholding the rebirth gives huge satisfaction. Seek out solid pieces of furniture (made from real wood, not the wannabe wood "veneer" sold at most furniture gigs) and play with color. You'll save hundreds and have a beautifully individual piece.

To get started, you'll need:

• orbital sander (don't forget to look on Craig's List first)
• several packs of sandpaper from fine to medium grit
• drop cloth
• stripping agent and scraper for existing stain
• 10-15 rags
• wood conditioner
• rubber gloves
• mask
• 2" paint brush
• stain
• polyurethane sealant (I like semi-gloss for most pieces)
• new hardware (optional)

Before beginning: Select a piece of furniture that doesn't have too many details or complex surfaces for your first project. You need simple lines and planes to practice with technique before tackling more detailed pieces.

Step 1: Prepare a secure area outside with minimal wind and plenty of ventilation. The garage works fine. Place your furniture on top of a drop cloth and secure the edges of the cloth to the ground. If you have little ones running around the house, make it absolutely clear they may not go near the furniture.

Step 2: This is the hardest and ickiest part of the project. If you can push through this, the rest is down hill. Put on your gloves and mask. Apply the stripping agent to your furniture with a paintbrush. Do not paint back and forth--the stuff works the best when you slop it on thick and leave it. It is highly acidic and very painful to the touch. Let it sit for the time recommended on the can and wipe it off with rags. You will probably need to apply it at least twice. The goal is to remove most of the original stain, but some of it will have to be sanded off. After applying the stripper wipe down with a damp cloth and let sit for a few hours.

Step 3: Sanding is the fun part. But to avoid changing the shape of the piece or causing damage to it, you must have patience. Attach a sheet of medium grit paper to your orbital saw and begin sanding the large areas such as the drawer faces, table tops, and seats, with the grain only. Don't spend too much time on one area, but rather "apply" the sanding as if it were a coat of paint. Give equal treatment to all surface areas so you don't have a dip in the wood. Repeat with a finer grit of sandpaper to give it a smooth finish.

Any curves or edges will need to be sanded by hand, and this is where you will need patience. Always apply pressure, but not too much. Try to use a sanding block whenever possible to avoid finger lines in the wood.

Step 4: When your piece is completely sanded, wipe it clean with a damp cloth and apply wood conditioner. Let it rest to dry for at least 24 hours. Keep it secured in a dry place until staining.

Step 5: Apply stain to your wood with a paintbrush. You may want to test a hidden area first to make sure the color you want jives with the wood--sometimes the final look varies widely from the sample. Wipe off excess stain according to directions on the can and give it an ultra-light sanding. More than likely, you'll want to add another coat several hours after the first. Sometimes putting a different stain on top of the first coat gives it a deep, rich color. Don't be afraid to play!

Step 6: Let the stain dry completely and re-sand if necessary. This last step is the hardest--it gives the piece a smooth look like the topcoat of a manicure. If it looks globby, your finished work will be a mess. Paint the furniture with 2 polyurethane coats, letting each dry for several hours (outdoor pieces need to use marine grade polyurethane to stand up to the weather). Always load your brush with enough goop and paint into the areas that have already been coated. Let the piece dry for at least three days and, presto! You have a hand-crafted gem for much less than the furniture dealer.